Door Wiring

As I mentioned in the first post, the door locks and window switches on both the drivers side and passenger side worked intermittently. At all times I could lock and unlock the doors as well as roll up and down both windows but it may not have been from the same door. For example, sometimes I had to use the driver side switches to roll up and down the passenger window.

The problem is old wires that get pulled and pinched every time the doors are opened and closed. Over time, the rubber boots which are meant to cover and protect the wires passing from the cab into the doors end up gripping onto the wires and pinching them and eventually breaking them and then you have weird locks and switches. On the same site that I found the speedometer fix is another How-To on fixing the door wiring. The repair process involve removing one end of each door wire harness through the door speaker and removing the rubber boot.  This reveals the broken wires and a good soldering job with heat shrink is all it takes to fix it. Since he does a great job describing the process, I will not go into further detail about the process. After I completed the fixes for both the driver and passenger side harnesses, everything worked as it should except the passenger side window switch. I unplugged the switched and ran checks on it using a multimeter and discovered that the switch was bad. The MR2 Repair manual a.k.a Big Green Book (BGB) shows a diagram of the contacts on the switch and how each should perform. I bought a used window switch from a user on MR2OC.com and swapped it in and everything is now operating as it should.
Mission Accomplished

Here's is an example taken from Stephen Mason's site showing what happens to the wires.